2012 Riding Season – Special Contribution

The 2012 riding season is upon us, there are some things to remember as we pull our bikes out of the garage. Services and Maintenance.

When vehicles sit for any time it is important to check the tire pressure. Written on the sidewall, usually in small print, you will find the Tire Pressure in PSI and KPA (metric) and always checked when the tire is cold. I don’t usually inflate the Front tires to the max recommended rate, they aren’t handling the weight load like the Rear so I leave them 4 PSI light. This helps with handling and wear. The Rear is set at the required PSI. With gas prices high as they are today with no relief in sight, correctly inflated tires will save at the fuel pump as well. Check your tire pressure weekly and inspect for scalloped , uneven or low tread wear and sidewalls for dry rot, replace as necessary.

Air Filters should be cleaned or replaced as per the manufacturer’s instruction/interval, this will also save engine life and at the pump.

Spark Plugs should be replaced as per the manufacturers specification. Most late model Harley’s Spark Plug Gap is 38 – 42 thousandths, I usually open the Gap to 45 – 48 Thousandths depending upon the looks of the electrode. If it looks like it’s running rich I will gap at .048 and lean at .045, this also helps the Coil work a little harder making it that much more of a happy component.

Oil and Oil Filter, these items are changed out together. Most Fossil Oils are changed out at 3K, Semi-Synthetic around 5K and Synthetics around 7K miles. Check the manufactures specifications on the container. If your motorcycle uses different Oils in your Tranny and Primary, these fluids should be changed at the manufacturer’s suggested intervals unless using a different chosen fluid ie… Synthetic. Drive Shafts use a Hypoid fluid and replaced by specifications.

Whether you’re running a chain or belt, both should be inspected for wear and fit with their respective sprockets or pulleys. Raise the Rear tire off the ground enough to inspect for running true on the respective components. This is not necessary with Drive Shaft Models. Check your Rear tire wear while it’s up.

Lighting should be checked every time you plan on using it, Head Lamp (high & low) directional and most importantly Brake lighting, this could save your life.

Most Brake fluids should be drained and replaced with new approximately every 2 years ensuring you maintain the hydraulic viscosity for proper braking. Check your manufacturer’s specifications for the correct D.O.T. Fluid.

A tech tip on Front hydraulic brakes, by Jim Thompson. The average man has a grip of 70 – 110 lbs. in a panic these numbers can double. These forces are transmitted to the hydraulic system via a lever with a mechanical advantage of 5 to 7 to 1, to a small piston in the Handle Bar Master Cylinder down to the Caliper Piston with an internal hydraulic pressure of 500 PSI in a normal stop to 1500 PSI in a panic stop.

It’s for the panic stop reason why I never use 4 fingers on my Front Brake Lever. I use 2 fingers, Index and IQ, so I never lock up my Front wheel. Braking can cause just as many accidents as throttling so use them both wisely.

Your Battery, too many of us put the bike away without using a Tender. The Battery Tender can extend the life of the Battery for many years beyond the expected life. I talked with someone Tuesday night who had to change his battery after 7 years on a Tender when not in use. If you think your battery is compromised have it load tested before replacing, it may be something as small a loose cable.

Please feel free to contact me with any questions and have a great and safe riding season.

Tom Poole
Patriot Guard Rider – Rhode Island
tomp93@juno.com

(Just another example that Patriot Guard Riders has no borders)

All You Need To Know About Street Motorcycle Tires

Motorcycle Industry Council Tire Guide:  All You Need To Know About Street Motorcycle Tires

Excellant source of a Guide for Tire Buying Guide for Motorcycles:  http://tinyurl.com/Tire-buying

This orginial source for this guide:  http://www.mic.org/TireGuide.cfm

Resources contributed by Patriot Guard Riders of CT Member and Special Contributor:
Jay Koonz
jaykoonz@comcast.net

Winter Storage Tips: Back On The Road

Before you head out onto the highway, there are a couple of things to do. First, remove the cover and put it where you can find it again. Talking of finding things, locate the (charged) battery and reinstall it connecting the positive (+) cable (red) before the (-) negative and covering the terminals with the plastic covers. Recheck all fluid levels and turn on the fuel. Check for anything wrong on the motorcycle (cracked tires, broken parts/plastic, leaking oil). Set the tire pressures back to riding specs and you are ready to fire up.

As you don your riding gear, remember that your riding skills will be a little rusty and the road surfaces will have changed a bit since the last ride, so go carefully. Sand/salt deposits on the edge of the road and especially at corners may be hazardous.

And each spring your dealer’s phone will ring off the wall with customers who did not store the ol’ bike properly and now wonder why it won’t run.

Some preparation now will ensure that you are out riding in the spring instead of waiting in the dealer’s lineup.
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Greg Young Patriot Guard Riders of CT Safety Officer/Captain
email: PGRSparky@yahoo.com
telephone: 860-388-2041

Winter Storage Tips: Service all fluids

If the brake or clutch fluids haven’t been changed in the last two years or 18,000 km (11,000 miles), do it now. The fluids used In these system are “hygroscopic” which means that they absorb moisture. The contaminated fluid will cause corrosion inside the systems which may give problems when the motorcycle is used next spring. Be sure to use the correct fluids and note the warnings and instructions in the service manual. If you don’t have the experience to service these systems, contact your dealer, he will be happy to assist you.

If your motorcycle is liquid cooled, the coolant requires changing every two years or 24,000 kms (15,000 miles). Make sure that the engine is cool enough to rest your hand on it before draining the system and please dispose of the coolant responsibly. Coolant/antifreeze is available from your dealer and has been developed to provide the correct protection for your motorcycle engine. Mixed 50/50 with distilled water will ensure a clean system for the next two years or 24,000 kms (15,000 miles).

Now you can cover the bike with the cycle cover and look forward to the first warm day of spring.
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Greg Young Patriot Guard Riders of CT Officer/Captain
email: PGRSparky@yahoo.com
telephone: 860-388-2041

Winter Storage Tips: Tires

Tires

Check both front and rear tires with your air pressure gauge. Make sure each tire is properly inflated to the maximum recommend pressure. As it gets colder, air condenses in your tire so it is important to pump them up as to keep your tires healthy. Rubber is a flexible material and does not like to freeze (it cracks when it freezes). Placing 1/4″-1/2″ piece of cardboard or wood board under each tire will help keep the rubber raised up from a freezing floor.

DO NOT use a tire dressing on tires (such as Armor-All or tire cleaning foam) as this will make the tires hard and slippery.

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Greg Young
Patriot Guard Riders of CT Safety Officer/Captain
email: PGRSparky@yahoo.com
telephone: 860-388-2041

Winter Storage Tips: Exhaust and Mufflers

Exhausts/Mufflers are known to rust fast when they are not used. So making sure they are properly stored for the winter on your bike will save them from an early rusty death. Spray a light oil (such as WD40) into the muffler ends and drain holes. Lightly stick a plastic bag (shopping bag is fine) into the end of each muffler hole (to keep moisture from getting inside the exhaust). Then cover each muffler with another plastic bag to keep outside moisture off.

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Greg Young
Connecticut Patriot Guard’s Safety Officer/Captain
email: PGRSparky@yahoo.com
telephone: 860-388-2041

Winter Storage Tips: Surface Preparation

Waxing and polishing the motorcycle might seem like a waste of time since you are putting it away and no one will see it. But applying wax is a very important part of storing a motorcycle.Wax will act as a barrier against rust and moisture.

Don’t forget to spray any other metal surfaces (such as the frame or engine) will a very light spray of WD-40. This will keep these areas shiny and protect from corrosion as well.

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Greg Young
Connecticut Patriot Guard’s Safety Officer/Captain
email: PGRSparky@yahoo.com
telephone: 860-388-2041

Winter Storage Tips: Battery Storage

The battery must be removed from the motorcycle when it is in storage. Motorcycles often have a small current drain even when the ignition is switched off (dark current), and a discharged battery will sulfate and no longer be able to sustain a charge.

A conventional battery should be checked for electrolyte level. Add distilled water to any of the cells that are low and then charge the battery.

Battery charging should be performed at least every two weeks using a charger that has an output of 10% of the battery ampere hour rating. For example if the battery has an AH rating of 12 (e.g. 12N12A-4A-1 where the 12A is 12 amp hours), then the charge rate of that battery should not exceed 1.2 amps. A higher charge will cause the battery to overheat. Charge the battery away from open flame or sparks as the gas (hydrogen) given off a battery can be explosive. Elevate the battery and keep it from freezing. Exercise the proper caution appropriate to caustic substances.

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Greg Young
Connecticut Patriot Guard’s Safety Officer/Captain
email: PGRSparky@yahoo.com
telephone: 860-388-2041

Winter Storage Tips: Lube the cylinder(s)

Tip: You only need to do this if your motorcycle will be stored a very long time (6 months or more)

Because gasoline is an excellent solvent and the oil scraper ring has done its job, most of the oil from the cylinder walls have been removed since the last time the engine was run. If the cylinder wall is left unprotected for a long period of time, it will rust and cause premature piston and ring wear.

Remove the spark plugs and pour a tablespoon (5 cc) of clean engine oil or spray fogging oil into each cylinder. Be sure to switch off the fuel before you crank the engine or else you may refill the drained carbs! Also, ground the ignition leads to prevent sparks igniting any fuel residue. Turn the engine over several revolutions to spread the oil around and then reinstall the plugs. Refitting the plugs before cranking the engine could result in a hydraulic lock if too much oil was used in the cylinder.

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Greg Young
Connecticut Patriot Guard’s Safety Officer/Captain
email: PGRSparky@yahoo.com
telephone: 860-388-2041

Winter Storage Tips: Add Fuel Stabilizer And Drain Carbs

Tip: You only need to drain the carbs if your motorcycle will be stored more than 4 months. Otherwise just add fuel stabilizer to the gas tank, run the bike for 10 minutes so it mixes and gets into the carbs.

Fill the tank with fresh fuel, but do not overfill. The correct level is when the fuel just touches the bottom of the filler neck. This gives enough room for the fuel to expand without overflowing the tank when temperature rises.

Shut off the fuel petcock and drain the carburetors and the fuel lines. Add winterizing fuel conditioner to prevent the fuel from going stale, and help prevent moisture accumulation. Stale fuel occurs when aromatics (the lighter additives) evaporate leaving a thicker, sour smelling liquid. If left long enough, it will turn into a gum, plugging the jets and passages inside your carbs!
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Greg Young
Connecticut Patriot Guard’s Safety Officer/Captain
email: PGRSparky@yahoo.com
telephone: 860-388-2041